Thursday, February 26, 2009

An Exhilarating Day near Da Lat

(A French tourist told his wonderful trip in Da Lat and gave useful suggestion to others)

I climbed a mountain today. Probably the oldest, fattest American ever to climb it, and I can hardly believe I did, but I did. We have pictures to prove it.

We signed up for the "easy" trek with Groovy Gekko, an outdoor tour company right next to our hotel here in Da Lat. Mercy. We went straight up the side of a mountain. No steps, no walkway, just tree roots and dead pine needles to give you traction. Our ever cheerful and encouraging guide Thanh and my companion Joseph both supplied a helping hand or shoulder for balance at times, but I actually made it all the way up on my own legs.


Paradise Lake from mountain

On the way up, a local Vietnamese mountain climber passed us as if he did the climb every day (I suspect he just about does). Later he came back down holding a bright yellow yard-long poisonous snake over his head. He let us "pet it" all the while Thanh was explaining to us how deadly it was.

At the top we took in the view, had our picture taken by one of the Buddhist monks camping at the top of the mountain who graciously broke from his meditation to come take pictures of the three of us at the summit, and then we each ate a couple of bananas. Okay, time to go down the other side. I was hoping for a more leisurely way down. After all, this was the "easy" trek. But, alas, no. If anything, the way down was steeper than the way up. After timidly progressing 20 yards or so down, I was ready to accept that I may just hae to stay there, and depend on passing Vietnamese to give me something to eat and drink now and then, and perhaps bring me a change of clothes now and then.

Luckily, our guide had a better idea. He was carrying a plastic tarp for us to sit on for our lunch later in the day. Instead, I used the tarp as a sled, and SLID on my butt DOWN THE MOUNTAIN. Thanh said he thinks he may have hit on a new sport–butt mountain sledding–for his company to promote. Needless to say, once we hit on the trick, going down was much faster than going up, and my rear end is only a little sore from the couple of times I completely lost control and shot out into mid air for a few seconds before coming down to earth again.

A bit about our guide: Thanh is a recent college graduate. He's been leading these tours for about two years. He told me he's lived in Da Lat all his life, and went to college there, but that his parents are from the north. Other than English, he also speaks Russian, which he said he studied in college primarily because his grandfather, who studied in Moscow, told him not to take it because it was too hard. I suspect grandfather was perhaps applying a little reverse psychology there.


Fishing in Paradise Lake

The whole trip today was truly incredible. Before the real mountain began, we went through a small family-run pineapple and coffee farm where I had my first taste of berries from a coffee tree. And after our descent we had lunch next to Paradise Lake in a lovely park filled with an amazing collection of flowering trees and shrubs, and with hundreds of butterflies, with seemingly no two butterflies alike.

After lunch, we shared a boat with a passel of drunken fishermen to cross Paradise Lake. They kept trying to convince us to share their wine, and two of them couldn't resist the urge to rub the fat foreigner's belly. I told Joseph my tummy should be pretty shiny by the time we get back if people keep rubbing it at this rate. One drunken fishermen stumbled and almost overturned the boat at one point, my reaction to which they all found very amusing.

Once across the lake, I faced the last challenge of the day, a 222-step climb to the largest Buddhist temple in the southern part of Vietnam (another way of saying it's the second largest Buddhist temple in Vietnam). The place was just crawling with monks and nuns. If I remember right, about 250 live there. We got to listen in on a class taught by the head monk, an 84-year-old who lectured with a very VERY tranquil voice, which was nice to hear after our challenging day. It was only after our climb up the steps, and a tour of the place, that I discovered the aerial tram that takes most tourists from Da Lat on an easy ride right up to the temple - no steps required. Sigh.


The Crazy House in Da Lat

After the temple, we jumped in the tourist company van and headed back to the hotel for a shower and to drop off my dirty clothes at the front desk for the evening laundry service. Then a stop at the bakery, and then finally here for beverages and a little Internet time.

Today was a truly amazing day. The last time I did a rough mountain climbs like this was in northern China, again a long climb up a mountain to visit a temple. I have friends who actually do things like rock climbing on purpose, but for me, walking up a mountain is almost always something I find myself surprised to be doing, not something I do by choice.) For that mountain in China, I was much younger, lighter, and more vigorous then - maybe 18 years ago or so. I'm not sure how long it will be before I try this again. Right now, though, I feel GREAT. We'll see how I feel in the morning.

Tomorrow's outing is sightseeing - mostly by car. I understand that a couple of the stops feature a lot of steps, like the temple today, but after today's mountain, that will be like a cakewalk.


The Chicken Village

In general, I'd not recommend heading to Da Lat for these "sights." But the surrounding countryside is beautiful, and if you're into hiking, biking, or motorcycling, this is really a great place to visit, and the weather's a real break from the sweltering humidity of most of Vietnam. A number of outfits here will rent you motorcycles or bikes so you can go exploring the surrounding mountainous terrain or your own, or even cycle or motorbike all the way back to Saigon. I have searched on internet and found an attractive website about adventure www.activetravelvietnam.com. So cool! I like Kayaking tour, I should come to Ha Long bay soon, I can't wait anymore.

If we have time tomorrow, we'll head for a southern district of Saigon that's supposedly just crawling with monkeys. Who can pass up hanging out a few hours with a bunch of monkeys? Not me!

More information about Adventure tours, please view at:

www.activetravelvietnam.com
www.bikedalat.com

Tuesday, February 17, 2009

Sapa adventure with motorbike

(Ryan shared his trip to Sapa with motorbike, where he went, what he saw in the magnificent landscape)

Sapa is a pretty town in the mountains of northwestern Vietnam near the Chinese boarder.

Originally built by the French as a medical outpost, the city is now full of minority people from the local mountains and one of the major tourist destinations of north Vietnam. On Friday, 19 September, Ben, his girlfriend Huyen, Ben’s college friend Paul, and I set out for Sapa. The first leg of the journey began on a night train to the boarder town of Lao Cai. We arrived in Lao Cai early Saturday morning and hired a shuttle to Sapa. Thanks to the infusion of tourist dollars and French planning, Sapa is a very pretty and well-designed town. The town sits on a saddle and overlooks two large valleys. Vietnam’s largest peaks surround the town, and these are rugged mountains with significant elevation changes. Vietnam’s tallest peak, Fansipan, is very close.


Ethnic people, Sapa

The first thing we did after checking into our hotel Sapa GoldSea was rent motorbike. We rented three Honda Waves: one for me, one for Paul, and one for Ben and Huyen. Paul, who’s an actor from LA, had never ridden a motorbike before. We weren’t on the bikes for even two minutes before Paul drove his motorbike directly into the largest curb in Sapa. Apparently he was having difficulty turning and braking. Luckily Paul wasn’t hurt, even though I was convinced that he was going to fly over the handlebars, across the sidewalk, and into the bushes. Ben and Huyen were already back at the hotel wondering were Paul and I were as 12 or 15 Vietnamese men surrounded us and shook their heads, saying to Paul, “you no drive motorbike good.” The damage: the front tire was bent pretty badly. The total cost of the damage: 400,000 VND, roughly 25 USD. While his bike was at the shop, Paul hopped on the back of my bike and we left Sapa to visit some of the minority villages nearby. And Paul and I discussed how to drive a motorbike, which lead him to some success later in the trip.


Motorbike trip

The first village we came to was remarkable only because a sixty-foot section of the road through the village was comprised of one continuous rock. We parked our motorbikes and started walking through the town, but quickly realized that we weren’t going to see much because each of us had three minority (H’mong, I think) women surrounding us saying, “You buy from me? Very cheap for you—good price.” We retreated to our motorbikes and did a bit of shopping for hand woven textiles and silver jewelry, then took the road through town to the cave in the mountain.

Outside the cave stood six young boys carrying flashlights. After haggling with the boys, we rented four flashlights for 10,000 VND each and hired one of them to guide us through the cave. We had been hiking into the cave for 20 or 30 minutes when we made a startling discovery: This was a cave to China. Our guide told us that if you knew the way and had two or three days, the cave would dump you out in China. Needless to say, Ben, Paul, and I were ecstatic. A real tunnel to China? Amazing!


Local souvenirs on sale

We left the cave and returned to our motorbikes to find them flocked with more minority women, again trying to sell us things. One of them lived a short distance from the cave’s entrance and she invited us back to her house. We accepted. The house was a barn, except that people lived there too.

She kept pigs just outside the back door. We asked to see them and she proceeded to feed them corn. There were 12 or 15 pigs, mostly piglets, a few medium sized pigs, and a few big mommas. I asked Huyen, our official interpreter, what a pig costs in the local market. A big pig, one used for breeding, cost 50,000 VND, or roughly 3 USD. A medium sized pig, the best for eating, cost 80,000 VND, or roughly 5 USD. I suggested we buy an eating pig and hire the women to cook us lunch, but between Paul’s protests and the realization that they wouldn’t cook for us, we headed back to Sapa pigless.


Buffalo in Sapa

That afternoon we picked up Paul’s bike and headed into one of the valleys below Sapa. There we visited the ancient stone carvings. There not actually stone carvings, but some black rocks (basalt maybe) that poke up like sea monsters among the terraced rice fields. The scenery was beautiful. It was rice harvest time, so the rice field were light brown instead of rich green. To harvest rice, the locals cut the rice grass and lay it in bundles to dry. Once sufficiently dry, the bundles are beaten over bamboo baskets to knock the rice grains out. The rice grain is stuffed into huge sacks for transport to a machine that removes the husk from the grain. At this point the rice is ready for the market. The whole process relies heavily on manual labor, sickles, and water buffaloes.


Cute children in Sapa

We came back the hotel after an interesting trip day. Having dinner at The Golden Restaurant, we had a happy time to relax.

Further information about Adventure tours, you can visit:

Activetravel Vietnam
Activetravel Shop

Kayaking in Ha Long Bay - Fantastic and unforgettable experience

Kayaking in Ha Long Bay is more than an indulgence, it offers vistas not reachable by other means.

The setting cannot be more dramatic. Thousands of limestone peaks rise magically from crystalline emerald waters, dotted by islets and deep, mysterious caves.

However to access all of them, conventional boat tours are not the best way, say both experienced and greenhorn kayakers after doing their thing in the famous Ha Long Bay, located in the Gulf of Tonkin, and in the running for adjudication as a natural world wonder. Over the last decade or so, kayaking has become a popular activity in Ha Long Bay, which covers an area of 1,500 square kilometers, offering many options for both the less and the more adventurous.


Ha Long Bay, Vietnam

With modern kayaking equipment, visitors can maximize on speed and maneuverability as they explore the open sea and many hidden lagoons and stalagmite caves that are difficult to access by other means. After a day of paddling amongst islets, visiting hidden caves, lagoons, unspoiled beaches and floating fishing villages, they unwind on the boat and enjoy a sumptuous dinner.

Kayaking tours in the northern town of Ha Long offer tourists several different routes, overnight stays on boats, and different kinds of seafood. With dozens of tourist agencies offering Ha Long kayaking tours, each one strains to make its service unique in some way.

Kien Tran, production manager of Active Travel Vietnam Company, says “We use private support boats when paddling to explore hidden and untouristy corners of Ha Long Bay. That makes our itinerary different from those organized by other tour operators who just use kayaking packages offered by the overnight boats.”

“If you thought the hideout in the James Bond film “The Man with the Golden Gun” was spectacular, imagine a place where there are 3,000 such limestone islands clustered together in the East Sea of Ha Long Bay”, enthuses Kien.


Indochinasails - Luxury boat

As usual, a trip to Ha Long sets off from Hanoi in the morning.

On the three-hour bus ride, short breaks are taken for refreshment that are also shopping opportunities. A popular stop is a handicraft center where workers make jewelry, embroidery, lacquerware, stone carvings, and other artifacts on the spot.

Upon arrival in Ha Long, they board a wooden boat for a seafood lunch and a short cruise to Thien Cung Cave.

Mary says, “I don’t know that paying US$70 for our overnight cruise got us any better a boat than the $48 we were going to pay - but our crew and our guide were fantastic and I can’t even begin to describe the food we were served - it just kept coming and coming and coming!”

After a short exploration of the caves, the group begins its exploration of the bay paddling through an area of limestone islets. They pass a floating village to reach the Luon Cave – which is a tunnel thrusting through a mountain, and then paddle through the tunnel to explore a beautiful secluded lagoon. They finally meet the mother vessel, a Chinese style junk, anchored in front of the cave for dinner.

The second day at Ha Long, they start paddling to Van Chai Floating village and then continue to Dark Cave.

Tide permitting, they explore this amazing cave on the kayak. The cave is a 200-meter long, dark tunnel thrusting through a limestone mountain. The tunnel is the only entry to a secluded and beautiful lagoon. “Our first stop was some amazing caves that were only discovered in the late nineties,” says an Australian tourist, Caroline.


Kayaking in a nice day

Caroline’s brother David says, “I had never done it before. Caroline had once, so she was deemed the expert and took the lead in the front seat”.

“I saw lots of massive jelly fish everywhere which rather put us off this idea of swimming.”

After lunchtime, the group paddles to the Ba Trai Dao Lagoon, along a stunning and fairly rough sea channel, to explore its beautiful beaches.

Ben, 30-year-old British musician, who has returned to the hotel in Ha Long Town, says: “I went kayaking just to fulfill one of my Vietnam dreams. Paddled through limestone pillar islands, explored deep dark tunnels emerging in isolated lagoons or to be faced with fresh, new karst island formations. It was brilliant”.

He recalls: “The second night at Ha Long, my friend Danny and I were the only folk on deck and it was only 9:30 – a night swim was the only answer. It was a good idea.”

“The water was deliriously refreshing in the tropical heat and gave my fading brain a much-needed wake up call. The idea of swimming to party at one of the other boats docked nearby was raised, but there was nothing going on there either. So jumping off those sweeping Junk boat eaves was really the only answer.


Wonderful kayaking

“Off the first deck was easy, the second a little daunting and the third, climbing up on the roof, well… there’s really no better way to feel like you’re truly living again. If ever there was a thing to do with your favorite party people, 16 of you in a 6 cabin Junk boat on Ha Long Bay - cruising, kayaking, visiting beaches and exploring caves and tunnel networks by day and partying on deck by night – is really worthy of consideration,” says Ben.

Getting there

The best way to get to Ha Long Bay is to rent a car from Hanoi from a professional tour organizer. It costs approximately $100-$120 return.

There is also a tourist open bus service offered by travel agencies around the Hoan Kiem Lake in Hanoi. Cost is around $8 net/person/way.

Public buses leave from Long Bien Station to the Bai Chay Station (other side of Red River, five km from Hoan Kiem Lake) every 30 minutes from 6 a.m. to 6 p.m. and cost VND50,000 ($3) per person each way. This is not recommended for foreign travelers, as these buses are often crowded, slow and unsafe.

When to kayak
You can do kayaking on the bay all year around but the best time is between October and June.

The kayaking day
A typical kayaking day starts at about 8 a.m. after breakfast. Lunch will be served on the support boat. At the end of a kayaking day travelers return to the junk by 5 p.m. or 5:30 p.m.

Tourist should bring
Sun block, hats, anti-insect repellents, sunglasses, raincoats original passport.

Further information, you can visit:
Kayak Ha Long Bay
Vietnam adventure tour