Monday, August 3, 2009

SaPa, Vietnam, a natural mosaic

Boasting sublime unspoiled beauty, from rolling verdant hills to spectacular terraced fields, Sa Pa is a mix of natural wonder.

Pa Cheo farmers cultivate rice

Near the Chinese border in the northwest province of Lao Cai and around 376 kilometers from Hanoi, Sa Pa, founded as a scenic resort by the French in 1903, is best known for its wild, unspoiled landscapes.

Sa Pa’s scenic highlights include Hoang Lien Son National Park and the awe-inspiring 3,143-meter-high Mount Fan Si Pan – the highest mountain peak in Indochina. Every year, the area attracts thousands of tourists from all over the world who come to marvel at Sa Pa’s lush vegetation and spectacular scenery.

Nestled around 1,600 meters above sea level, Sa Pa is cloud-covered and cool year-round, with occasional snowfalls in the winter.

It is said that visitors who come to Sa Pa in the summer can experience up to three seasons in a single day. In the morning and afternoon, the weather is cool like that in the spring and autumn, while at noon, it is as sunny and cloudless as a warm summer’s day.

Visitors often travel to the city of Lao Cai by train before heading by coach to Sa Pa. Upon arrival, tourists can learn about the area’s sprawling rice paddies and observe the ethnic H’Mong and Dao peoples who wear a brilliant array of colorful, traditional clothing.

Stunning terraced fields

According to a survey carried out by US-based Travel and Leisure magazine, Sa Pa’s verdant terraced fields were ranked among the seven most beautiful in the world.

The most beautiful terraced field area is Suoi Thau, which is cultivated by the Dao people.

The other fields voted most beautiful by the magazine’s readers include those in Banaye (the Philippines), Yuangyang (Yunnan, China), Ubud (Bali, Indonesia), Annapurna (Nepal), Mae Rim (Chiang Mai, Thailand), and Longji (Guilin, China).

Sa Pa’s terraced fields belong to the ethnic H’Mong, Dao and Giay people, and are located in the Muong Hoa Valley of Lao Chai District. The area totals around 10 square kilometers and tourists can visit to learn about the process of rice planting and cultivation.

The fields were described by Travel and Leisure as “Ladders to the sky” because of their astounding natural beauty.

“It’s the best place in Vietnam with a rich cultural heritage and splendid landscape,” said a Singaporean tourist.

“The scenery and people were amazing,” echoed a tourist from the UK.

Lao Cai’s Department of Culture, Sports and Tourism also proposed that provincial authorities and the culture ministry should carry out research and compile information on Sa Pa’s terraced fields, Hoang Lien Son National Park, and an ancient rock bank to submit to UNESCO for recognition as world cultural heritage sites.

“This is a difficult task but we are trying to turn Sa Pa’s terraced fields into a world heritage site for the many foreign travelers who love Sapa and Vietnam,” said Tran Huu Son, the department’s chief.

Cultural diversity

Home to several ethnic groups like the H’Mong, Red Dao, Kinh, Tay, Giay, Hoa, and Xa Pho, Sa Pa is a mosaic of cultures and traditions. Many visitors enjoy learning about the ethnic people’s daily activities, traditions and beliefs.

H’Mong ethnic girl brings the young rice plants to the fields

Tourists are often astonished by the many billowing red headdresses worn by women of the Red Dao minority, visible all over town.

The H’Mong and Dao people make up the largest ethnic groups in the region. Their villages may appear simple and old-fashioned from afar, but many people now own mobile phones and regularly access their email from communal computers.

While some of the older generations of the ethnic minorities have had little formal education and are illiterate, most of the younger generations receive schooling and have a good command of English, French and a handful of other languages.

Tourists can also choose to go on two treks while staying in Sa Pa. The first is a 7 km journey, which takes about four hours and includes a stop for lunch. The other is a full-day adventure, covering around 17 km and following the perimeter of the rice paddies, through forested areas, past the doorsteps of tribal people’s homes, and across rivers and waterfalls.

Watching the locals go about their daily business is also an interesting experience. The children in Sa Pa work extremely hard-tending buffaloes, working in the fields, and caring for their younger siblings. Many of the young girls learn the timeless art of embroidery from their mothers.

The ethnic girls often marry young, at around age 14, and depend on the skills learned from their mothers to start new families of their own.

Sa Pa is also famous for its “love market,” which takes place on Saturday evenings. This cultural tradition once served as a way for ethnic locals to meet, socialize, and find a partner to marry.

In the past, young girls from the Red Dao hill tribes used to come to Sa Pa and sing songs to find partners. The girls would sing while hidden in the dark and when a boy found them – if they liked each other – they would disappear into the forest for three days and would then marry at a later date.

But with the development of tourism, the original love market, with its purpose of uniting young couples, has faded away. Visitors can still visit the area on Saturday nights, however, and be treated to a lively market atmosphere.

With its astonishing beauty and diverse peoples, Sa Pa is a remarkable travel destination and well worth a visit.

Reported by Hoang Kien/TN news

Recommended Itineraries:
- Sapa trekking tours: http://www.activetravelvietnam.com/tour.php?op=listByCategoryId&catId=9
- Sapa tours & excursions: http://www.activetravelshop.com/?name=product&op=listProducts&subcat=SapaTours
- Fansipan trekking tours, Sapa: http://www.trekfansipan.com

Sapa tags: Trek Fansipan & Sapa Travel, SaPa Hotels , Sapa Tours & daily excursions , Trek Mai Chau , Sapa trekking tours, sapa tours, sapa travel, trekking in sapa

Thursday, July 30, 2009

Colourful Bac Ha fair - Ethnic market around Sapa, Vietnam

Bac Ha fair opens every Sunday in Bac Ha district, the northern mountainous province of Lao Cai. The fair is known for its cultural identity of ethnic minority people.


The fair attracts not only domestic tourists but also many foreigners who come to look for colourful brocade, skirts of Mong ethnic minority people and specialities of the mountain region.


These Chinese tourists are looking at wooden and silver jewellery and other souvenirs


These brocade skirt made by Mong ethnic minority people are sold up to several Vietnamese million dong.

These brocade handbags are the favourite of many young city ladies

This kind of pig or called “lon man” is sold well here.

Rice wine is indispensable in Bac Ha fair.

At the end of the market is a place for trading cattle.

A foreign tourist stops a while before taking more photographs

After the fair, people normally have noodle full with fat meat and hot chilly.

Bac Ha fair attracts tourists with its wild and uncommercialised beauty but no one can assure that this identity will be preserved for next years.

Source: VietNamNet/Nhan Dan

Recommended itineraries
- West to East biking tours in Northern Vietnam

Sapa tags: Trek Fansipan & Sapa Travel, SaPa Hotels , Sapa Tours & daily excursions , Trek Mai Chau , Sapa trekking tours, sapa tours, sapa travel, trekking in sapa

Thursday, July 9, 2009

Ha Long Bay...Junk boat

We signed up for the Halong Bay boat trip with our guest house, A Dong Hotel in the old quarter of Hanoi, the guys here are very helpful and with a little bit of persuassion they did us a good deal, we got a 2 day and 1 night trip on the boat for $28.

The guys picked us up no problem and took us off, we got tp the port and there were hundreds of junk boats taking people out on trips, eventually we got onto ours. Remember to take your passport with you or they wont let you stay on the boat over night. Apparently the harbour police caught some terrorists 6 months ago smuggling weapons and drugs aboard one of the boats, so the police made it mandatory to know who is on which boat at what time.


Indochina Sails 3 by you.

Indochina Sails


The crew were nice enough, we stopped shortly after de-berthing and had some lunch, then set off into the bay itself. We were told by the guide that there are over three thousand islands in the area, however only one thousand nine hundred odd are in the actual conservation area. The whole area is a vastness of natural beauty, we have barely seen anything as nice, apart from the water it is slightly murky, not very good for snorkling! Our cabin was on the small size but you dont get a lot when you go for the extra budget option do you! the water in the shower worked when it felt like it and when it did it was only a dribble, Katie though didnt care she was just made up to be sleeping on a junk boat in the middle of Halong Bay, thats why i love her you see.

That day we stopped off at Sung Sot caves and spent over an hour walking through the caves and taking in the sights, there are a lot of stalagmites and stalagtites. The guides try to show you all these pictures in the rocks and shadows but they are hardly true and you could probably make better ones up yourselves, the "romeo and juliet" one is a real corker! After the caves we once again boarded the boat and set off for the fishing village, on the way we stopped at another cave you could visit by hiring a small boat, we decided it wasnt worth it and just stayed on the boat chatting to some couples.

The weather was gorgeous 40 plus easy and we were making the most of it all of us on the sun deck! We arrived at the fishing village and got to stop at one of the shops there that house the live fish in specially constructed rafts, the boats crew brought our dinner from here for dinner later! After this we dropped some people off at Cat Ba island that were staying the night at the hotel on the island instead of the boat (apparently its cheaper). We carried on cruising around the bay all afternoon and in the evening we settled in a small bay where we had dinner and everyone just chatted and socialised.

The next day we were awoken at 06:30 to be informed it was time for us to go KAYAKING! what the hell!!! so we dragged our sorry asses out of bed and paddled around the cove and checking out caves and stuff. We ended up really enjoying it even tho we could barely open our eyes! After that we did nothing, we dropped off more people on the island and picked up some more then took a leisurely cruise back to the main dock at Halong city. So Katie and I just took advantage of the once again gorgeous weather and bronzed up to the max!

Katie & Scott

Source: Travelblog

Supported by Indochina sails & Huong Hai Junk

Friday, April 24, 2009

Active Travel Asia (ATA) offers free Vietnam Tourist Visa services for travelers

Following the cheaper options campaign, Active Travel Asia supports free Vietnam Visa services on Active Travel Shop (www.activetravelshop.com) for travelers who plan to travel Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia and book hotels & excursions in Vietnam until September 30, 2009.

Active Travel Shop (ATS), one of Active Travel Asia (ATA) sister sites is a first class online travel shop for international independent travelers. ATS offers all travel related services including travel packages, flight, car rental, hotel reservations and tour operations to independent travelers to Vietnam, Laos, and Cambodia. ATS guarantees to offer travelers the competitive rates at the premium service quality level in the market.
Promotion at Activetravelshop

ATS offers free Vietnam tourist Visa services which travelers can choose to apply Visa on Arrival Vietnam, or just take the Visa Approval Letter sent by ATA and apply at Vietnamese Embassies and Consulates in traveler’s country. Please refer to Vietnam Embassies at http://www.activetravelvietnam.com/traveltips/vietnam_embassies_consulates_ab...

To apply Vietnam tourist Visa, please download the guideline and follow step by step at http://www.activetravelshop.com/index.php?name=download&product=TouristVisaAp...

Travelers have more options to choose many hotels and excursions on Activetravelshop.com from budget to luxury accommodation as well as find the suitable excursions in Hanoi, Halong Bay, Sapa, Hoi An, Nha Trang or Mekong delta. More info at: http://www.activetravelshop.com/index.php?name=product&op=listSubcategories&c...
Note:
- Active Travel Asia only offers free Vietnam tourist visa services for travelers book hotels and excursions on Active Travel Shop.
- This offer is exclusive of Visa Stamp fee at Vietnam Embassy or Vietnam International Airport
- This offer is valid until September 30, 2009 and applied only to new bookings from Activetravelshop.com.
- This promotion is not combined with any other promotions from ATA

Other Special Promotions on ATA’s sister sites:

Active Travel Asia (ATA): http://activetravel.asia/special_offer/
Active Travel Vietnam (ATV): http://www.activetravelvietnam.com/tour.php
Active Travel Cambodia (ATC): http://www.activetravelcambodia.com/tour.php

Active Travel Asia (ATA) offers free Vietnam Tourist Visa services for travelers

Following the cheaper options campaign, Active Travel Asia supports free Vietnam Visa services on Active Travel Shop (www.activetravelshop.com) for travelers who plan to travel Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia and book hotels & excursions in Vietnam until September 30, 2009.

Active Travel Shop (ATS), one of Active Travel Asia (ATA) sister sites is a first class online travel shop for international independent travelers. ATS offers all travel related services including travel packages, flight, car rental, hotel reservations and tour operations to independent travelers to Vietnam, Laos, and Cambodia. ATS guarantees to offer travelers the competitive rates at the premium service quality level in the market.


Promotion at Activetravelshop
ATS offers free Vietnam tourist Visa services which travelers can choose to apply Visa on Arrival Vietnam, or just take the Visa Approval Letter sent by ATA and apply at Vietnamese Embassies and Consulates in traveler’s country. Please refer to Vietnam Embassies at http://www.activetravelvietnam.com/traveltips/vietnam_embassies_consulates_ab...

To apply Vietnam tourist Visa, please download the guideline and follow step by step at http://www.activetravelshop.com/index.php?name=download&product=TouristVisaAp...

Travelers have more options to choose many hotels and excursions on Activetravelshop.com from budget to luxury accommodation as well as find the suitable excursions in Hanoi, Halong Bay, Sapa, Hoi An, Nha Trang or Mekong delta.


Note:
- Active Travel Asia only offers free Vietnam tourist visa services for travelers book hotels and excursions on Active Travel Shop.
- This offer is exclusive of Visa Stamp fee at Vietnam Embassy or Vietnam International Airport.
- This offer is valid until September 30, 2009 and applied only to new bookings from Activetravelshop.com.
- This promotion is not combined with any other promotions from ATA

Other Special Promotions on ATA’s sister sites:
Active Travel Vietnam (ATV): http://www.activetravelvietnam.com/tour.php
Active Travel Cambodia (ATC): http://www.activetravelcambodia.com/tour.php

Active Travel Asia (ATA) offers free Vietnam Tourist Visa services for travelers

Following the cheaper options campaign, Active Travel Asia supports free Vietnam Visa services on Active Travel Shop (www.activetravelshop.com) for travelers who plan to travel Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia and book hotels & excursions in Vietnam until September 30, 2009.

Active Travel Shop (ATS), one of Active Travel Asia (ATA) sister sites is a first class online travel shop for international independent travelers. ATS offers all travel related services including travel packages, flight, car rental, hotel reservations and tour operations to independent travelers to Vietnam, Laos, and Cambodia. ATS guarantees to offer travelers the competitive rates at the premium service quality level in the market.


Promotion at Activetravelshop

ATS offers free Vietnam tourist Visa services which travelers can choose to apply Visa on Arrival Vietnam, or just take the Visa Approval Letter sent by ATA and apply at Vietnamese Embassies and Consulates in traveler’s country. Please refer to Vietnam Embassies at
http://www.activetravelvietnam.com/traveltips/vietnam_embassies_consulates_ab...

To apply Vietnam tourist Visa, please download the guideline and follow step by step at http://www.activetravelshop.com/index.php?name=download&product=TouristVisaAp...

Travelers have more options to choose many hotels and excursions on Activetravelshop.com from budget to luxury accommodation as well as find the suitable excursions in Hanoi, Halong Bay, Sapa, Hoi An, Nha Trang or Mekong delta. More info at:
http://www.activetravelshop.com/index.php?name=product&op=listSubcategories&c...

Note:
- Active Travel Asia only offers free Vietnam tourist visa services for travelers book hotels and excursions on Active Travel Shop.
- This offer is exclusive of Visa Stamp fee at Vietnam Embassy or Vietnam International Airport.
- This offer is valid until September 30, 2009 and applied only to new bookings from Activetravelshop.com.
- This promotion is not combined with any other promotions from ATA

Other Special Promotions on ATA’s sister sites:

Active Travel Asia (ATA): http://activetravel.asia/special_offer/
Active Travel Vietnam (ATV): http://www.activetravelvietnam.com/tour.php
Active Travel Cambodia (ATC): http://www.activetravelcambodia.com/tour.php

Tuesday, April 21, 2009

Biking Tour in Northern Vietnam

Providing a fleeting insight into the traditional lives, friendly tribes and exotic landscapes of north-travelers and north-east Vietnam, the trip also delivers surprisingly good riding across the mountainous area of northern Vietnam. There are technical sections, easy hills, huge flowing descents and some glorious single tracks.

The day for biking from Sapa to Ban Ho Village, Travelers will begin the ride around 8.30am, directly from Sapa and straight away travelers are flying along on a 38km stretch involving a challenging climb at first and then a spectacular, fast flowing downhill to join a remote jeep track. Travelers will meet up for picnic lunch at the downhill. The jeep track climbs at first then provide a fast descent before travelers hit a short section of paved road that leads to Lao Cai Town. This is a long and challenging day with one short section where travelers might have to carry the bikes.


A biking day - Sapa, Vietnam

The day for biking in Bac Ha, Lao Cai, The ridding begins on a good hard pack track along the side of a quiet road. Climbing gently then descending steeply to the small village of Coc Ly. Take a boat trip on Chay River, a beautiful river with stunning mountain gorge. The boat trip is followed by a ride on riverbank single-track and an alpine road climb to the quiet town of Bac Ha.

The day for biking from Bac Ha to Hoang Su Phi, Travelers drive 10 km west to Lung Phin where travelers start climbing toward Xin Man. This day, travelers will bike across one of the most remote parts of northern Vietnam. At first travelers tackle a steady climb for 1 hr and then hitting the tarmac for a fast descent into the quiet town of Xin Man. The riding in the afternoon takes travelers down to a bridge over the upstream of Chay River and for the next 40 km traveler’s cycle along a quiet road that gently climbs and follows the river to the town of Hoang Su Phi.


Biking on offroad track

The day for biking in Ha Giang, travelers leave Hoang Su Phi early morning; there are 6 km downhill before travelers turn off onto a remote track leading though mountains. On this part the support vehicle will not be able to follow the group and continue on the main mountain road to Viet Lam, where travelers will meet up later this day. The ride highlight today is a long descent punctuated with waterfall and switchbacks, which flows seamlessly into some sinuous riverside single track making for fantastic riding. Eventually travelers emerge onto rough tarmac and climb before finally dropping down again to the hot springs of Viet Lam, where travelers can ease the aching muscles. Refreshed, travelers transfer the final 20 miles along Highway 2 to the busy district capital of Ha Giang.

At first day for biking from Ha Giang to Bac Me, travelers tackle 12 km gentle climbs and then it is an undulating, idyllic route through friendly villages and paddy fields, surrounded by jagged limestone hills. Light lunch en route and travelers will reach the small town of Bac Me early afternoon. The rest of the day, travelers can explore this litter town and its surroundings or relax with a cold beer in local bars.


Winners at Tram Ton pass

The day for biking from Bac Me to Ba Be Lake, travelers cross the Gam River and leave the main road to follow a small track cross-country off-road all the way to Ba Be. The support vehicle will not be able to follow the group on this route and travel along way to meet travelers in Ba Be National Park. Depending to the condition of the track travelers will have an emergency jeep or motorbike for water, food and first-aid. The ride involves three climbs, crossing a succession of river valleys, but is rideable all the way. At the village of Dan Dong, travelers will be transferred into traditional long boats for a relaxing 1.5-hour ride along the beautiful Nang River and cross the lake into the stunning Ba Be National Park. The park is centered on the country's largest natural lake which is surrounded by limestone cliffs, waterfalls, and caves and abundant of wildlife.

The day for Boat trip on Ba Be Lake, travelers will board a long boat for a fantastic boat trip on the stunning Ba Be Lake.

Summer Promotion Valid from Apr 01, 2009 to Jul 31, 2009 at www.activetravelvietnam.com

Monday, April 6, 2009

A Tour of Halong Bay

Indochinasails on Halong Bay, Vietnam by you.

Indochinasails on Halong Bay


My bike is sitting un-used in my room, waiting for a ride. I have not cycled since arrival in Hanoi as it looks to be quite a big challenge to navigate the horrible traffic congestion out on those streets. It is the worst I've ever seen, and I've been to quite a number of third world countries. It is a total free-for-all out there. Accidents are commonplace, much like bumper cars, except with bicycles, motor bikes, and pedestrians running into each other.

I was up early for an all day guided tour to Halong Bay. The cost was $29 and included lunch. I originally had planned on cycling out to Halong and then spending a couple of days exploring that area, but I'm already a couple of days behind my planned time for this trip and by taking a commercial tour, it will get me back on track. At 6:30am I took the elevator down to the lobby, it was pitch back inside and outside, no lighting in the lobby at all. The front doors were locked and closed shutters blocked the view to the street. As I got used to the darkness and looked around the lobby, I could make out people sleeping on cots and also that there were a number of motor bikes parked in the lobby too. I stood around wondering how I was going to get outside where I would be picked up by the tour company mini-van. Soon, a few of those sleeping bodies began to stir and awaken. Within a few minutes they were all getting off their cots, turning on the lights, folding the cots up along with their bedding, and preparing for the work day ahead. These people were all hotel employees, and I surmised that this hotel is also their home. What a way to exist! I'm sure many other employees live in the same manner at other businesses.

The tour van came by at exactly 7:30am and we headed east out of the city on our way to the Gulf of Tonkin, 115 miles away. We soon crossed over the Red River, named not for political reasons, but because of a mineral in the river that turns the water a red color. The trip to Halong would take 3 1/2 hours and part way our group of 8 tourists stopped at a small village for a tour of a cottage industry. This occurred I would guess, because the driver would get a commission on whatever we would purchase while shopping there. It seems that every village produces or manufactures a particular product or item, and in this case it was a village of silk weavers and embroiders. I must admit, these artists did amazing work. When given a small 6 inch photograph, they would embroider a duplicate scene to a size of 12 inches, or up to a three foot size reproduction in perfect detail, using about 100 stitches or more per inch. You could stand a foot away and not be able to tell that it was not an enlargement of the photo, or a very good oil reproduction. I was really impressed with the quality and would have loved to have purchased one, but such is my limitation when touring by bicycle. Space is always a big consideration and at a premium, with no extra room for non-necessities. When one of these masterpieces is finished, it is fairly weighty and quite stiff, so they cannot be rolled into a smaller package.

After that break, we continued on. I found myself sitting next to a young gal from Canada named Jennifer. She is working in Vietnam and was on a break, therefore taking today's tour. Her job description is something we would all probably love. She works for an international five star hotel chain and therefore travels world wide checking into the company's hotels, incognito, and spending five days at each one. She uses all the amenities the hotel offers in addition to eating in their restaurants, and then writes a report on her findings. After a five day stay, she flies on to the next one. All her expenses are paid, and she gets a salary in addition. I didn't know such a job existed! She told me she is due for a vacation soon, and I asked her where she will go on a vacation as it appeared to me that she is on a perpetual vacation. He favorite vacation spot... Thailand! Mine too! Then she told me that when she goes on a vacation, she never stays in a five star accommodation, even with a big discount, she prefers smaller, unique accommodations with a local atmosphere instead of the same-same accommodations of the big chain hotels. She asked me for some suggestions on places to go and places to stay in Thailand, and I offered her some advice on great locations like Koh Samui, and Phuket which are a couple of my favorite places to visit.

After our little shopping spree, we continued on. This mini-van driver was much more sane than the insane driver I had from the airport. At one point we passed a truck load of ducks, each one was placed in a white sack with a slit for the duck's head. There must have been at least a thousand birds packed on that truck and all their heads were bobbing up and down and darting in every which direction. We were all amused at that sight. Legend says that a huge dragon ran down from the highest mountains and into the sea at Halong Bay. On it's way down the mountainside, the dragon's immense tail was swaying to and fro and thereby digging very deep valleys and raising the soil to form higher mountains. These deep valleys were then filled with sea water and that action created the 3,000 islands that make up Halong Bay.

When we arrived at the pier on the bay shore, we were divided into 3 groups, so each group had it's own guide/translator. Each group also had it's own boat. The group I was in boarded a 40 foot long converted junk that was actually pretty nice with a lower deck that served as a dinning room, and an open air upper deck which was for lounging. Our guide's name was Tom. Tom was a girl. Of course I teased her about the name, and she would just look at me with a 'I don't understand look'. I didn't think she knew anything about teasing, so I explained that I was just having fun with her name. She told me she loved Americans!

We were served a great meal in the dinning room of the boat. There were 6 large plates of food, served family style, plus rice and drinks. The boat trip took us through a number of islands and we all relaxed on the teak lounges on the top deck. The trip took a couple of hours, the scenery was magnificent and the sea was calm and clear. We docked at one of the islands and then climbed a long staircase up the side of a mountain and entered some huge caverns. The caves were illuminated and had nice tiled pathways and stairs. The caverns were immense, so large that it was hard to realize their actual size. Tom gave us a running commentary, but her English was difficult to understand, so we didn't learn much. This trip to Halong Bay is considered the number one tourist destination in all of Vietnam. In 1994 this area was designated a World Heritage Site and became protected, that shows the importance of this beautiful spot.

We got back to Hanoi late in the day, about 8:30pm, and the driver unloaded all of us at a central location, not at each of our hotels. I was ravished by hunger by this time of day. Our drop-off location was near the lake so there were numerous restaurants to choose from. I chose "Mama Romas", a great choice, if I say so myself. The Ambiance was very nice, right out of Italy. There was a solo violinist playing soft romantic music right across from my table. The meal I ate was better than meals I got when visiting Italy! The only thing I missed was my sweetie who could be sitting in the vacant chair at my table. By the time I walked back to my hotel, the street sweepers, with brooms and shovels were out in force. It's a big job picking up all the trash that is deposited in the gutters and on the streets in this city. During the daytime, people toss all kinds of trash and garbage into the streets and there are piles of stinking garbage everywhere by nightfall. By morning, everything has been cleaned up.

Recommended vessels on Halong bay, Vietnam:

Overnight luxury cruise on Halong Bay: Indochinasails
info@indochinasails.com; www.indochinasails.com

More cruises on Halong Bay: Vietnam Cruise or Huong Hai Junk






Tuesday, March 24, 2009

NORTHERN VIETNAM

Northern Vietnam’s climate is tropical. The dry season is cool, and lasts from October to April, while the wet season, from May to September, is warmer. The average temperature is 23°C.

Hanoi is not only the country’s capital but also the cultural centre of Vietnam. A modern city, it is home to over 600 pagodas and temples and offers visitors a chance to experience the culture and history within a constantly bustling urban setting.

From Hanoi, visitors can embark on an overnight train heading further north into the mountains of Sapa. Trekking through the breathtaking scenery over natural waterfalls, rice paddy fields and wild bamboo forests, you can also stay overnight in a traditional Vietnamese long house hosted by one of the many hill tribe families.

If you head east for three hours from Hanoi, you will reach Halong City, your gateway to the awe-inspiring Halong Bay, the treasure piece of Vietnam. Listed with UNESCO, this pristine turquoise bay comprises of almost 2,000 islands, and it is picturesque from every angle.

There are many hotels and tourist companies offering their services here, but be warned – you do get what you pay for. For those looking for a little luxury, Indo China Sails operate the newest junks in Halong Bay, offering one- and two-night stays. The extra night is highly recommended, as it allows you to enjoy the full range of activities on offer including kayaking, cave exploring, squid fishing, and a visit to the fishing communities.

RECOMMENDED CRUISE


INDOCHINA SAILS

Offers various packages for the Halong Bay experience. All prices include transfers to and from Hanoi.

www.indochinasails.com, info@indochinasails.com.


TRAVEL TIP

If you are travelling overnight on a train, don’t forget a pillowcase and a sheet.

Source: http://www.gurusexplore.tv/

Monday, March 9, 2009

Enjoy A Day On Halong Bay Cruise Biking Tour

Halong Bay cruise biking tours are conducted by various tour operators and these biking sessions provide the travelers time to bond with the nature and observe the beautiful sights there.

Indochina sails - Cruises on Halong Bay, Vietnam ><br /> <div style=

Biking on Halong Bay


Halong Bay, located in the Tonkin Gulf, includes around 1600 islets and islands forming spectacular seascapes of limestone pillars. Due to the precipitous nature of the islands, most of them are unaffected and uninhabited by human presence. The outstanding scenic natural beauty of the site is further complemented by places of great biological interests.

One of the ideal ways of exploring the place is through Halong Bay cruise biking as it brings the travelers face to face with many of the varied aspects of the bay. There are various tour operators who conduct biking trips along with the cruises, which includes cycling, boating and visits to fruit gardens, cottage industries, locals’ homes and floating markets. Biking offers the travelers a great opportunity to explore the place in an entirely different way.

Types of Halong Bay cruise biking tours:

If you are the kind who want to experience a diverse adventurous sensation along with fascinating trails of the bay, you can choose a cruise biking program offered by the various tour operators out there. The different terrains and varied topography of the place offer one of the greatest opportunities to practice biking here. The programs are offered in different difficulty levels so that everyone can take part in it, regardless of his or her previous experience or physical condition.

There are different types of biking tour programs which include those designed for observing mystic forest vegetation and the interesting bird life in these, those for highlighting beautiful landscapes of the place and those for observing impressive coral reefs, caves, grottos and hidden ponds. Some of the tours are also conducted for exploring the beautiful sandy beaches along the Halong Bay.

The biking sessions can be conducted during day or night for a duration of about 2-5 hours, depending upon the interests and physical condition of the guests. Cruise biking is an exciting and different kind of adventure, which provides an opportunity to enjoy unseen corners of the bay and to bond with the nature.

The travelers can choose to cruise their favorite destinations in a distinctive manner and get to enjoy the moments from off beaten tourist tracks with these guided biking excursions. The experienced guides provided by these tour operators will lead the tourists and show them some of the most interesting and sought after sights and places of the area.

These tour operators offer biking tours with varied difficulty levels so that whether you are a passionate biker or a novice, there is surely something waiting for you to explore.

Whether looking for relaxation or for adventure, you are welcomed at these biking excursions so that you can have a memorable holiday experience. You will be accompanied by qualified guides who will give you valuable tips and interesting information about different destination coming your way. These tours will provide you more time for sightseeing and relax on beaches or in cafes along the coast.

These biking tours also provide sufficient breaks so that you can click pictures, relax, enjoy the picturesque views and explore the points and sights of interest. Before going on a biking excursion, make sure that you have a well-maintained bike, a helmet, rucksack, fitness bar and a bike bottle.

Recommended tours for biking on Halong bay: Indochinasails and Active Travel Vietnam

Thursday, February 26, 2009

An Exhilarating Day near Da Lat

(A French tourist told his wonderful trip in Da Lat and gave useful suggestion to others)

I climbed a mountain today. Probably the oldest, fattest American ever to climb it, and I can hardly believe I did, but I did. We have pictures to prove it.

We signed up for the "easy" trek with Groovy Gekko, an outdoor tour company right next to our hotel here in Da Lat. Mercy. We went straight up the side of a mountain. No steps, no walkway, just tree roots and dead pine needles to give you traction. Our ever cheerful and encouraging guide Thanh and my companion Joseph both supplied a helping hand or shoulder for balance at times, but I actually made it all the way up on my own legs.


Paradise Lake from mountain

On the way up, a local Vietnamese mountain climber passed us as if he did the climb every day (I suspect he just about does). Later he came back down holding a bright yellow yard-long poisonous snake over his head. He let us "pet it" all the while Thanh was explaining to us how deadly it was.

At the top we took in the view, had our picture taken by one of the Buddhist monks camping at the top of the mountain who graciously broke from his meditation to come take pictures of the three of us at the summit, and then we each ate a couple of bananas. Okay, time to go down the other side. I was hoping for a more leisurely way down. After all, this was the "easy" trek. But, alas, no. If anything, the way down was steeper than the way up. After timidly progressing 20 yards or so down, I was ready to accept that I may just hae to stay there, and depend on passing Vietnamese to give me something to eat and drink now and then, and perhaps bring me a change of clothes now and then.

Luckily, our guide had a better idea. He was carrying a plastic tarp for us to sit on for our lunch later in the day. Instead, I used the tarp as a sled, and SLID on my butt DOWN THE MOUNTAIN. Thanh said he thinks he may have hit on a new sport–butt mountain sledding–for his company to promote. Needless to say, once we hit on the trick, going down was much faster than going up, and my rear end is only a little sore from the couple of times I completely lost control and shot out into mid air for a few seconds before coming down to earth again.

A bit about our guide: Thanh is a recent college graduate. He's been leading these tours for about two years. He told me he's lived in Da Lat all his life, and went to college there, but that his parents are from the north. Other than English, he also speaks Russian, which he said he studied in college primarily because his grandfather, who studied in Moscow, told him not to take it because it was too hard. I suspect grandfather was perhaps applying a little reverse psychology there.


Fishing in Paradise Lake

The whole trip today was truly incredible. Before the real mountain began, we went through a small family-run pineapple and coffee farm where I had my first taste of berries from a coffee tree. And after our descent we had lunch next to Paradise Lake in a lovely park filled with an amazing collection of flowering trees and shrubs, and with hundreds of butterflies, with seemingly no two butterflies alike.

After lunch, we shared a boat with a passel of drunken fishermen to cross Paradise Lake. They kept trying to convince us to share their wine, and two of them couldn't resist the urge to rub the fat foreigner's belly. I told Joseph my tummy should be pretty shiny by the time we get back if people keep rubbing it at this rate. One drunken fishermen stumbled and almost overturned the boat at one point, my reaction to which they all found very amusing.

Once across the lake, I faced the last challenge of the day, a 222-step climb to the largest Buddhist temple in the southern part of Vietnam (another way of saying it's the second largest Buddhist temple in Vietnam). The place was just crawling with monks and nuns. If I remember right, about 250 live there. We got to listen in on a class taught by the head monk, an 84-year-old who lectured with a very VERY tranquil voice, which was nice to hear after our challenging day. It was only after our climb up the steps, and a tour of the place, that I discovered the aerial tram that takes most tourists from Da Lat on an easy ride right up to the temple - no steps required. Sigh.


The Crazy House in Da Lat

After the temple, we jumped in the tourist company van and headed back to the hotel for a shower and to drop off my dirty clothes at the front desk for the evening laundry service. Then a stop at the bakery, and then finally here for beverages and a little Internet time.

Today was a truly amazing day. The last time I did a rough mountain climbs like this was in northern China, again a long climb up a mountain to visit a temple. I have friends who actually do things like rock climbing on purpose, but for me, walking up a mountain is almost always something I find myself surprised to be doing, not something I do by choice.) For that mountain in China, I was much younger, lighter, and more vigorous then - maybe 18 years ago or so. I'm not sure how long it will be before I try this again. Right now, though, I feel GREAT. We'll see how I feel in the morning.

Tomorrow's outing is sightseeing - mostly by car. I understand that a couple of the stops feature a lot of steps, like the temple today, but after today's mountain, that will be like a cakewalk.


The Chicken Village

In general, I'd not recommend heading to Da Lat for these "sights." But the surrounding countryside is beautiful, and if you're into hiking, biking, or motorcycling, this is really a great place to visit, and the weather's a real break from the sweltering humidity of most of Vietnam. A number of outfits here will rent you motorcycles or bikes so you can go exploring the surrounding mountainous terrain or your own, or even cycle or motorbike all the way back to Saigon. I have searched on internet and found an attractive website about adventure www.activetravelvietnam.com. So cool! I like Kayaking tour, I should come to Ha Long bay soon, I can't wait anymore.

If we have time tomorrow, we'll head for a southern district of Saigon that's supposedly just crawling with monkeys. Who can pass up hanging out a few hours with a bunch of monkeys? Not me!

More information about Adventure tours, please view at:

www.activetravelvietnam.com
www.bikedalat.com

Tuesday, February 17, 2009

Sapa adventure with motorbike

(Ryan shared his trip to Sapa with motorbike, where he went, what he saw in the magnificent landscape)

Sapa is a pretty town in the mountains of northwestern Vietnam near the Chinese boarder.

Originally built by the French as a medical outpost, the city is now full of minority people from the local mountains and one of the major tourist destinations of north Vietnam. On Friday, 19 September, Ben, his girlfriend Huyen, Ben’s college friend Paul, and I set out for Sapa. The first leg of the journey began on a night train to the boarder town of Lao Cai. We arrived in Lao Cai early Saturday morning and hired a shuttle to Sapa. Thanks to the infusion of tourist dollars and French planning, Sapa is a very pretty and well-designed town. The town sits on a saddle and overlooks two large valleys. Vietnam’s largest peaks surround the town, and these are rugged mountains with significant elevation changes. Vietnam’s tallest peak, Fansipan, is very close.


Ethnic people, Sapa

The first thing we did after checking into our hotel Sapa GoldSea was rent motorbike. We rented three Honda Waves: one for me, one for Paul, and one for Ben and Huyen. Paul, who’s an actor from LA, had never ridden a motorbike before. We weren’t on the bikes for even two minutes before Paul drove his motorbike directly into the largest curb in Sapa. Apparently he was having difficulty turning and braking. Luckily Paul wasn’t hurt, even though I was convinced that he was going to fly over the handlebars, across the sidewalk, and into the bushes. Ben and Huyen were already back at the hotel wondering were Paul and I were as 12 or 15 Vietnamese men surrounded us and shook their heads, saying to Paul, “you no drive motorbike good.” The damage: the front tire was bent pretty badly. The total cost of the damage: 400,000 VND, roughly 25 USD. While his bike was at the shop, Paul hopped on the back of my bike and we left Sapa to visit some of the minority villages nearby. And Paul and I discussed how to drive a motorbike, which lead him to some success later in the trip.


Motorbike trip

The first village we came to was remarkable only because a sixty-foot section of the road through the village was comprised of one continuous rock. We parked our motorbikes and started walking through the town, but quickly realized that we weren’t going to see much because each of us had three minority (H’mong, I think) women surrounding us saying, “You buy from me? Very cheap for you—good price.” We retreated to our motorbikes and did a bit of shopping for hand woven textiles and silver jewelry, then took the road through town to the cave in the mountain.

Outside the cave stood six young boys carrying flashlights. After haggling with the boys, we rented four flashlights for 10,000 VND each and hired one of them to guide us through the cave. We had been hiking into the cave for 20 or 30 minutes when we made a startling discovery: This was a cave to China. Our guide told us that if you knew the way and had two or three days, the cave would dump you out in China. Needless to say, Ben, Paul, and I were ecstatic. A real tunnel to China? Amazing!


Local souvenirs on sale

We left the cave and returned to our motorbikes to find them flocked with more minority women, again trying to sell us things. One of them lived a short distance from the cave’s entrance and she invited us back to her house. We accepted. The house was a barn, except that people lived there too.

She kept pigs just outside the back door. We asked to see them and she proceeded to feed them corn. There were 12 or 15 pigs, mostly piglets, a few medium sized pigs, and a few big mommas. I asked Huyen, our official interpreter, what a pig costs in the local market. A big pig, one used for breeding, cost 50,000 VND, or roughly 3 USD. A medium sized pig, the best for eating, cost 80,000 VND, or roughly 5 USD. I suggested we buy an eating pig and hire the women to cook us lunch, but between Paul’s protests and the realization that they wouldn’t cook for us, we headed back to Sapa pigless.


Buffalo in Sapa

That afternoon we picked up Paul’s bike and headed into one of the valleys below Sapa. There we visited the ancient stone carvings. There not actually stone carvings, but some black rocks (basalt maybe) that poke up like sea monsters among the terraced rice fields. The scenery was beautiful. It was rice harvest time, so the rice field were light brown instead of rich green. To harvest rice, the locals cut the rice grass and lay it in bundles to dry. Once sufficiently dry, the bundles are beaten over bamboo baskets to knock the rice grains out. The rice grain is stuffed into huge sacks for transport to a machine that removes the husk from the grain. At this point the rice is ready for the market. The whole process relies heavily on manual labor, sickles, and water buffaloes.


Cute children in Sapa

We came back the hotel after an interesting trip day. Having dinner at The Golden Restaurant, we had a happy time to relax.

Further information about Adventure tours, you can visit:

Activetravel Vietnam
Activetravel Shop

Kayaking in Ha Long Bay - Fantastic and unforgettable experience

Kayaking in Ha Long Bay is more than an indulgence, it offers vistas not reachable by other means.

The setting cannot be more dramatic. Thousands of limestone peaks rise magically from crystalline emerald waters, dotted by islets and deep, mysterious caves.

However to access all of them, conventional boat tours are not the best way, say both experienced and greenhorn kayakers after doing their thing in the famous Ha Long Bay, located in the Gulf of Tonkin, and in the running for adjudication as a natural world wonder. Over the last decade or so, kayaking has become a popular activity in Ha Long Bay, which covers an area of 1,500 square kilometers, offering many options for both the less and the more adventurous.


Ha Long Bay, Vietnam

With modern kayaking equipment, visitors can maximize on speed and maneuverability as they explore the open sea and many hidden lagoons and stalagmite caves that are difficult to access by other means. After a day of paddling amongst islets, visiting hidden caves, lagoons, unspoiled beaches and floating fishing villages, they unwind on the boat and enjoy a sumptuous dinner.

Kayaking tours in the northern town of Ha Long offer tourists several different routes, overnight stays on boats, and different kinds of seafood. With dozens of tourist agencies offering Ha Long kayaking tours, each one strains to make its service unique in some way.

Kien Tran, production manager of Active Travel Vietnam Company, says “We use private support boats when paddling to explore hidden and untouristy corners of Ha Long Bay. That makes our itinerary different from those organized by other tour operators who just use kayaking packages offered by the overnight boats.”

“If you thought the hideout in the James Bond film “The Man with the Golden Gun” was spectacular, imagine a place where there are 3,000 such limestone islands clustered together in the East Sea of Ha Long Bay”, enthuses Kien.


Indochinasails - Luxury boat

As usual, a trip to Ha Long sets off from Hanoi in the morning.

On the three-hour bus ride, short breaks are taken for refreshment that are also shopping opportunities. A popular stop is a handicraft center where workers make jewelry, embroidery, lacquerware, stone carvings, and other artifacts on the spot.

Upon arrival in Ha Long, they board a wooden boat for a seafood lunch and a short cruise to Thien Cung Cave.

Mary says, “I don’t know that paying US$70 for our overnight cruise got us any better a boat than the $48 we were going to pay - but our crew and our guide were fantastic and I can’t even begin to describe the food we were served - it just kept coming and coming and coming!”

After a short exploration of the caves, the group begins its exploration of the bay paddling through an area of limestone islets. They pass a floating village to reach the Luon Cave – which is a tunnel thrusting through a mountain, and then paddle through the tunnel to explore a beautiful secluded lagoon. They finally meet the mother vessel, a Chinese style junk, anchored in front of the cave for dinner.

The second day at Ha Long, they start paddling to Van Chai Floating village and then continue to Dark Cave.

Tide permitting, they explore this amazing cave on the kayak. The cave is a 200-meter long, dark tunnel thrusting through a limestone mountain. The tunnel is the only entry to a secluded and beautiful lagoon. “Our first stop was some amazing caves that were only discovered in the late nineties,” says an Australian tourist, Caroline.


Kayaking in a nice day

Caroline’s brother David says, “I had never done it before. Caroline had once, so she was deemed the expert and took the lead in the front seat”.

“I saw lots of massive jelly fish everywhere which rather put us off this idea of swimming.”

After lunchtime, the group paddles to the Ba Trai Dao Lagoon, along a stunning and fairly rough sea channel, to explore its beautiful beaches.

Ben, 30-year-old British musician, who has returned to the hotel in Ha Long Town, says: “I went kayaking just to fulfill one of my Vietnam dreams. Paddled through limestone pillar islands, explored deep dark tunnels emerging in isolated lagoons or to be faced with fresh, new karst island formations. It was brilliant”.

He recalls: “The second night at Ha Long, my friend Danny and I were the only folk on deck and it was only 9:30 – a night swim was the only answer. It was a good idea.”

“The water was deliriously refreshing in the tropical heat and gave my fading brain a much-needed wake up call. The idea of swimming to party at one of the other boats docked nearby was raised, but there was nothing going on there either. So jumping off those sweeping Junk boat eaves was really the only answer.


Wonderful kayaking

“Off the first deck was easy, the second a little daunting and the third, climbing up on the roof, well… there’s really no better way to feel like you’re truly living again. If ever there was a thing to do with your favorite party people, 16 of you in a 6 cabin Junk boat on Ha Long Bay - cruising, kayaking, visiting beaches and exploring caves and tunnel networks by day and partying on deck by night – is really worthy of consideration,” says Ben.

Getting there

The best way to get to Ha Long Bay is to rent a car from Hanoi from a professional tour organizer. It costs approximately $100-$120 return.

There is also a tourist open bus service offered by travel agencies around the Hoan Kiem Lake in Hanoi. Cost is around $8 net/person/way.

Public buses leave from Long Bien Station to the Bai Chay Station (other side of Red River, five km from Hoan Kiem Lake) every 30 minutes from 6 a.m. to 6 p.m. and cost VND50,000 ($3) per person each way. This is not recommended for foreign travelers, as these buses are often crowded, slow and unsafe.

When to kayak
You can do kayaking on the bay all year around but the best time is between October and June.

The kayaking day
A typical kayaking day starts at about 8 a.m. after breakfast. Lunch will be served on the support boat. At the end of a kayaking day travelers return to the junk by 5 p.m. or 5:30 p.m.

Tourist should bring
Sun block, hats, anti-insect repellents, sunglasses, raincoats original passport.

Further information, you can visit:
Kayak Ha Long Bay
Vietnam adventure tour

Friday, January 16, 2009

Valentine's Day in Luxury cruise on Halong bay

"Everyday is Valentine's Day in February with 14% Discount on all On board Services"


( VALID FROM 1st FEB – 28th FEB 09)


Valentine on Ha Long Bay cruise Vietnam.


Enjoy the Sweet February on the Bay with Indochina Sails:

• 14% Discount on Beverages, Kayaking, Massage Services and Transportation

• Daily Vietnamese Food Preparation and Carving Demonstrations


Terms & Conditions


• Cruise rates based on groups of two adults
• Advance reservations required
• Supplement cabins for normal walk-in rate without extras
• Other terms and conditions apply
• Available on Indochina Sails I and II only

Cruise Itinerary and program for 2 days on Halong Bay


Contact us at info@indochinasails.com

Source: www.indochinasails.com

Sunday, January 11, 2009

Mountain Climbing, tunnel crawing kayaking…. on Halong Bay , Vietnam.

I’m writing this waiting to get the night train to Hue. We just came back from Halong Bay which was an overnight on a boat on the bay. It is a world heritage site and so beautiful. It was misty and a bit rainy but apparently that makes it more atmospheric although I’d say they just tell you that to shut people up moaning. It was a long trip in a mini bus to the bay and of course as usual with organised tours we had to stop at a souvenir shop for twenty minutes more like forty. When we got to the bay our boat was nice and the crew were lovely. It was the four of us and a Canadian couple and a German couple. We sailed off into the bay anyway which is amazing I’ll put up some pictures. they told us we were going to see the caves so I went down to the cabin to get my camera and when I came out the girls were all up on the dock I was wondering what all the shouting was about, the boat was pulling out of the harbour, I was morto, they had to go back in again to drop me off.

Photobucket

The first cave we stopped at is a really big one, it was really crowded with tourists, but it was great, look at the picture of the fertility symbol (hahahaha). Then back to the boat to a smaller cave. Much smaller. We had to crawl in. Our guide Nga, told us it was a maze cave so she had the girls climbing up into holes to find the way out. She was in hysterics laughing, so was I, I wasn’t climbing into any holes (so I thought!) Sure enough we had to crawl out through a tiny tunnel. I was a bit freaked. It got worse. Nga, told us there was a lovely garden further up, so we climbed up this rock face on a little trail, guided by a rope, with a sheer cliff drop down to the sea. Seriously. At the top everyone is looking at the view “wow’ ‘amazing’. Then it was time to go down but of course I was expected to move at this stage and I was rooted to the spot my legs wouldn’t stop shaking! I managed to hold it together and climbed back down, the bravery was very impressive - no crying and not much freaking out! Cait wasn’t much better than me so I didn’t feel so bad.

Photobucket

Back on the boat after dinner the crew wanted us to do Karaoke. They all obviously loved karaoke and thought we should too….we were up for a laugh but the German couple were not impressed. The girls got up to do a song and the microphone kept getting awful feedback and between the girls belting out the song and the squealing feedback I was in hysterics, there were tears rolling down my face and I swear the German girl did not crack a smile she had a face like a smacked arse, which just made me worse. At one stage she put her fingers in her ears. Not a smile out of her all evening. I don’t think she approved of us. They went to bed eventually TG and everyone relaxed and had a bit of fun finally!

Had to get up at 7am for breakfast because of the Sea Kayaking. I thought this was optional as in I was going to opt out. Not so. we told Nga about fifty times that we didn’t know how to Kayak and Cait eventually managed to get out of it. I went in the canoe with Nga, shaking like a leaf of course. It was ok in the end we paddled around the sheltered part of the bay, I was happy out thinking this is not too bad…….and then the Germans with their big serious heads in their big serious raingear start going when are we going to the caves? Poor Nga is in a bit of a bind at this stage because I obviously don’t have a notion what I’m doing and neither to Caroline and Solenn and you have to go out in the open sea to get to the cave. So I said to her why don’t you tell the girls to go back (thinking she could drop me off at the boat too). Yes, the girls got sent back but oh no I had to go out in the South China Sea in a canoe to look in a cave. It was actually great but seriously hard work and poor Nga got tired halfway there and I kept soaking her with my amateur paddling but we got back alive and that’s the main thing!

Every muscle in my body hurts - hopefully I will sleep on this night train..

Sourse: Dee2000x - TravelPod

Recommended vessels for Halong cruises

The Indochina Sails Email: info@indochinasails.com, http://www.indochinasails.com/

More cruises on Halong Bay - Active Travel Shop, #31, Alley 4, Dang Van Ngu street, Hanoi, Vietnam. Phone 84-4-35738569

Adventure tours on Vietnam - Active Travel Vietnam

Tuesday, January 6, 2009

Ha Long Bay, Vietnam Romance

Ever since I saw the movie "Indochine," I've wanted to visit Ha Long Bay. I loved the haunting scenes where Camille and Jean Baptiste, her beloved French soldier (originally her adoptive mother's lover - it's a French film after all) float through the islands in a small junk. Camille's just killed a French soldier, they're fleeing the French army, and they're without food or water and are barely conscious, but it's all terribly romantic, like they are the last two people on earth, together at last.

My Ha Long Bay journey was not exactly cut from the same cloth. I was about 60 years too late for the sexy French soldiers. I took a package tour on a junk like everyone else, since it's the easiest and cheapest way to see Ha Long Bay from Hanoi. After researching a few companies
and reading lots of stories on-line about nightmare trips, I booked a 3 day/2 night trip with Active Travel Vietnam.


The first leg of the journey was a 3 hour bus ride through the North Vietnamese countryside where highly industrial meets pre-industrial. After we left the urban sprawl of Hanoi, the road was lined with giant factory complexes. Our guide proudly pointed them out as examples of recent foreign investment. In between the factories, in between the houses, and seemingly in every available scrap of land are the green, green rice fields. Huge power lines tower over them, factories abut them, towns surround them, but the rice fields do not yield. Vietnam is the second biggest exporter of rice (next to Thailand), and that’s after the immense amounts of rice consumed by a domestic market of 85 million people. It’s a lot of rice.

And on this freezing cold, drizzling day the fields were filled with farmers bent over, tending to the plants, thigh-high in cold water and mud, both men and women, wearing conical hats and flimsy plastic ponchos as protection against the rain. All throughout my travels in Vietnam, rice fields were everywhere, filled with farmers doing the back-breaking work of tending to the crops manually. On the way back, we saw a bus that had catapulted off the road into a rice field (at this point, our guide explained that buses in Vietnam are called “flying coffins”).

We reached Ha Long City, a pretty unattractive place filled with many hotels. Our guide explained the difference between European and Asian tourists: the European tourists like to sleep on the boats in the bay, while the Asian tourists like to take day trips and come back to town to do karaoke, gamble, shop and party. The port is jam-packed with tourist junks – there are literally hundreds of them jostling for space at the landing, stacked 5 or 6 deep, and even more anchored off shore. Tour guides herded groups of tourists bundled up in scarves and raincoats from mini-buses to boats.


We boarded our boat, and as we were pulling out of the harbor, I received my first surprise of the trip. I went to ask the guide about the train ticket the travel agency was supposed to book for me, and instead he told me, “Um, you signed up for the 3 day trip, but actually, you can only do a 2 day trip…”

Supposedly some people had cancelled, and since I was only one person, it was impossible to do the 3 day trip, but they would refund my money and here was the itinerary for the 2 day trip. I expressed disappointment, regret, outrage, but ultimately, considering that they had waited to tell me until I was on the boat that was chugging out of the harbor, there was nothing I could do but accept the refund and resign myself to the change in schedule. In the end, considering the weather was so miserable, it wasn’t such a tragedy.

We were seven in the group. There was a French Swiss couple who spoke little English and kept explaining how they’d spent 10 days in the far North where it had been very cold and there was no heat anywhere. They were clearly tired of being cold. Then there were the Aussies: a mother and daughter pair from Alice Springs, and two thirty-something women from Sydney, who were a lot of fun.

After crossing the bay, we glided into the limestone karst forest that is Ha Long Bay – a green sea crowned by thousands of oddly shaped limestone islands, like the tops of mountains sticking out of the sea. They’re uninhabitable, all sloping sides and stone, so people live on boats and in floating houses. They were cloaked in mist on this cold, grey day and there were islands as far as the eye could see. In some of the narrower passages it was as though we were in a canyon of green and stone. It was quite beautiful. I went up on the “sundeck” (I wasn't to see sun for another 2 weeks) to take photos, but the rain soon chased me inside.

It was gorgeous, but the weather was lousy. We tried to make the best of it, and six of us bravely set off in the cold drizzle to go kayaking. Our bottoms were soon soaked and frozen, and the legs and arms were next. Still, it was quite something to be so close to the water, the karst islands towering above us. Our guide led us through a small archway into a lagoon that lies in the center of an island. For a moment, it was as though we were the only people in Ha Long Bay, drifting through the mist.

But this feeling was not to last. We headed toward TiTop Island (named in honor of a Soviet astronaut who visited with Ho Chi Minh), where you can climb up to the top and get a panoramic view of the bay. According to the postcards on sale, it’s quite a view on a clear day. We pulled our kayaks up on the beach. Looking around, we realized that we were the only people who looked like drowned rats. All the other visitors had arrived on very solid looking wooden launches, looked quite neat, tidy and dry. Some of the tour groups even wore matching hats and jackets.

Between the six of us, we sported bare feet, plastic ponchos, the white plastic shower sandals that are standard issue in every Vietnamese hotel, dripping wet shorts, and men’s thermal underwear bottoms (that was me). We were also very wet. And lest I forget, we wore lovely bright orange life jackets (for extra warmth). Not bothering to take off the lifejackets, we made our way up the stairs as the impeccably groomed groups moved to the side and pointed and stared at us. We were clearly the comic relief for the afternoon, and as we ascended, one of us overheard someone say “Aussies for sure.” As the only non-Aussie in the group, I took it as a compliment.

After we returned to the boat and had very short, semi-hot showers, we discovered the main event of the evening: Vietnamese soap operas. Our guide had told us that dinner would be at 6.30. We all arrived early and sat expectantly at our tables. 6.30 came and went, and nothing happened. Instead, the entire crew – all male, mostly quite young – sat transfixed in front of the TV that sat over the bar. No one was going anywhere, and nothing was happening in the kitchen. I sat there, hungry and cold, trying to write in my journal, with my back to the TV, until I finally gave up, turned around and started asking questions.

It turned out that it was the equivalent of the season finale, a sacred event not to be interrupted by banal activities like feeding the tourists. The heroine was running away from her arranged wedding to the grave of her dead lover, while flashbacks to happier days played. Just as the man she was supposed to marry showed up to reclaim her, the ghost of her lover flew up from the grave and swooped her into the underworld, leaving only flowers and smoke. It was far more dramatic than I describe here, but the best part was watching these young Vietnamese men completely absorbed in this romantic doomed love drama, which oddly mirrored (in a same, same but different kind of way) the romance story that brought me to Ha Long Bay in the first place. I just hadn’t expected to find it on TV.

To more information about luxury cruise on Halong Bay, click here: http://www.indochinasails.com

Many kinds of tours on Halong Bay: Active Travel Vietnam ; #31, Alley 4, Dang Van Ngu street, Hanoi, Vietnam. Phone:(84-4) 3573 8569